We have recently been travelling down the Fossdyke Canal and the River Witham, having once again fought our way up the Tidal River Trent. This canal was originally dug by the Romans, and amongst other things, it facilitated the Vikings when invading deeper into England.
There is a tributary to the river, called the River Slea (also known as the Kyme Eau), and when we were here last we decided not to try going up it as we were not sure of the navigation potential. However, as we are here again and Helen was very keen to see it, we asked a lock-keeper at Torksey Lock, where we leave the Trent and join the canal, whether it was possible to travel up it.
“You should be ok” he said, ” but you will have to go all the way to the end turning point at Cobbler’s Lock to turn and come back”.
So we decided to give it a go.
WRONG!
The supposed navigable length of the river is approximately 8 miles, travelling up through Taylor’s Lock, through a lovely little village called South Kyme, and on to Cobbler’s Lock. The going is easy until South Kyme, but after that there are some rather low bridges (which we were expecting and had prepared for) and awkward bends and shallows. In fact, the last couple of miles we were dragging on the bottom of the river and hitting a lot of sand banks, which we were gradually making our way over. Until, that is, about 100yds before the turning point, we hit a sand bar across the river that we just could not get over.
That left us just one option, something we were very loath to attempt. We would have to reverse the almost 8 miles all the way back to Taylor’s Lock before we could turn around.
Now, narrowboats are not the easiest things to steer when going forwards. Despite the various theories about how it should happen, they are almost impossible in reverse as they will generally make up their own minds about which direction they are going to go, and that is complicated even more when you have a flow of water going the same direction you are. The general principle becomes “point boat the direction you want to go by going forwards and then reverse”. Then you will get a short distance before the boat thinks otherwise. When there is very little water under you, the propeller cannot get much purchase and the first part of that manoeuvre becomes even more difficult. Having a bow thruster (which moves the bow from side to side) helps a lot, but ours is electric and very quickly overheats then cuts out.
We made it back to South Kyme later that evening and moored up there for the night. I was, to put it mildly, rather exhausted and apprehensive about the rest of the journey the next day, but fortunately the water was a bit deeper on the last part, which made it a little easier. Interestingly, when the boat is being driven forwards, the stern is being pushed down, which is why we were dragging on the bottom. When going backwards, the propellor is pushing water under the boat, so at least we were not dragging when reversing.
Having eventually managed to turn around and while heading off the River Slea, we passed two boats heading up. I stopped to warn them of the problems, but they said they had it covered and would be alright. This picture shows their plan, which should work, as long as the river is not too narrow. Those familiar with boats will notice that they are facing opposite directions. One drives forwards going up and the other drives forwards coming back down. Clever!
As ever, click on any of the pictures for a larger image.
We recently travelled along the Huddersfield Narrow and Broad Canals, which take you up through Lancashire, and then down the Yorkshire side of the Moors. On the way down the Yorkshire side in particular, we saw some beautiful views, enhanced by the gorgeous Spring sunshine.
This trip involved a challenge – The Standedge tunnel. It is the longest tunnel on the system (about 3.5 miles), deepest (as it has the moors towering above it), the narrowest (only just room for Brandy Pad to squeeze through in places) and the lowest (I banged my head more then once). We hit the sides a few times – it is impossible not to – but only with the rubbing strips along the sides of the hull. Fortunately we did not hit the cabin sides, which would have been much more difficult to repair. The canal tunnel is actually one of four. There is a double rail tunnel on one side, still in use. An older rail tunnel on the other is now used as access for repair and safety.
There are strict safety rules involved in this passage. We had a chaperone from the Canal and River Trust, who was accompanied by three trainee chaperones. We had to wear hard hats, hi-vis vests and life jackets. Times of passage are specific, as there is no space for two boats to pass if you meet in the middle.
About 50 men lost their lives digging this tunnel and when you see the variations in height and width along the way, you have to feel for the original boat men and women who would have legged it through (on their backs, using their feet to “walk” against the sides or roof). We did it in just over 1 hour thirty-five minutes under power, which was pretty good going.
So, here is a short video to give you a feel for the rather claustrophobic journey. Enjoy:
Or, more to the point, the sound of BREAKING ice.
It was a cold night last night (though not inside the boat). We woke up this morning to find the first ice of the season. Fortunately it was not very thick (yet) and we were able to continue our journey. In this case, returning to Calcutt Marina where we are leaving Brandy Pad over Christmas.
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